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See the Automotive Tips and Repairs on the Home Page for more.

Warning: PartsPalace.com may not be held responsible for the outcome of performing such repairs to ones car. Such acts are performed at ones own risk, and sole responsibility must be assumed. This may include, but not limited to, the voiding of the vehicles factory warranty.

Always put safety first; using jack stands, eye protection, and all other required safety measures. It is also recommended to have supervision whenever possible.

Question:How do I tell if my car is running Rich or Lean?

Answer: You can test the voltage reading off of the Oxygen sensor by connecting the positive lead from a volt meter to the signal wire coming from the sensor and grounding the negative lead. Grounding can be done by touching the lead on the engine block or the negative battery terminal if you can reach it. While the engine is idling it should read about 0.7V. When taking a reading, make sure that all connections that normally are connected to the oxygen sensor are still in place.

A less accurate way to checking how an engine is running is to pull the spark plugs and checking the coloring of the ceramic of the spark plug near the electrode. If it is brown in color, sometimes with a lot of carbon buildup (sooty), the engine is running rich. If the plugs are white and chalky, chances are your engine is running lean.

Running lean at high engine RPMs is very bad for the engine since it causes what is known as detonation. This is when the engine is running hot (the combustion chambers get extremely hot) and "pingy". Eventually this condition will lead to melted pistons. Running Rich will make the car exhaust have lots of black smoke.

Symptom:My car is smoking. What does it mean?

Solution: Black smoke is usually due to running lean or burning oil. Blue smoke is most likely burning oil, but can also be from running rich.

White smoke is really steam and usually indicates that there is a coolant leak somewhere. Usually blown head gaskets will make the exhaust have white continuous smoke that will smell like anti-freeze (if you use antifreeze in your cooling system). In some cases, draining the oil and looking at it will help diagnose a coolant leak. If the oil looks like creamy coffee, then there is a coolant leak and the head gasket needs to be replaced.

White smoke that occurs only shortly after starting the car is most likely just water in the exhaust system being forced out. This is not a condition to worry about in most cases.

Question:What should be done in general on a car with 100k miles? (100k mile tune-up)

Answer: In most cars, the following should be done:

• The timing belt should be replaced.
• The water pump on most cars should also be replaced at the same time that you are replacing the timing belt.
• All coolant should be flushed from the cooling system and replaced.
• All brake fluid should be flushed from brake system and replaced.
• Spark Plugs should be replaced.
• Replaced the air filter and if you have one, the cabin filter (air filter for the A/C system).
• Adjust the e-brake cables.
• Remove and replace the fuel filter. This is located on the passenger side rear of most cars.
• Spark plug wires should also be replaced, particularly if the wire leads are getting brittle.
• The distributor cap and rotor should be replaced as well.

Question:How do you remove the cylinder head from the engine?

Answer: Although the details of removing a cylinder head from an engine varies from car to car, the overall process is pretty much the same:

The timing belt should be replaced.

1. Using a large socket wrench, rotate the crankshaft until the engine is in top dead center position (TDC). Checking this varies from engine to engine, but it is usually marked on the following places:
   • The camshaft pulley
   • The crankshaft pulley
   • The flywheel (you sometimes need to pull a plug on the bell housing and peer though this hole with a flashlight to spot the markings)

   If it is not marked, remove the spark plug from the #1 cylinder and insert a small rod or screwdriver then crank over the engine using the socket wrench until the rod or screwdriver is at its highest position. That's top dead center. Then mark it by using a line of whiteout going from the side or edge of the crankshaft pulley to the block so that you can tell when the two halves of the lines are lined up that the position of the engine is at TDC.

2. Mark TDC on the camshaft pulley (a line going from the pulley to the head) using whiteout or some paint so that you can tell when the camshaft is positioned at TDC if no marking already exists. The mark must be from the pulley to the head and not just the engine block as you will need to set the camshaft back to TDC before installing the head back on the engine.
3. Remove and label (if necessary) all electrical connections from the head.
4. Remove all coolant hoses from the head.
5. Remove the timing belt and any other belts that my interfere with the removal of the head.
6. Unbolt the intake and exhaust manifold from the head. The exhaust manifold bolts may be frozen. You will need to use a MAP gas or acetylene torch to heat them up until they are red hot and then get a socket on them and remove them each individually. MAP gas torches can be found at your local hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowe's home improvement store. Be careful removing the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets if you are planning on reusing them.
7. Unbolt/Remove any additional items connected to the head that are not permanently attached.
8. Unbolt and remove the valve cover. Be careful removing the valve cover gasket if you are planning on reusing it.
9. There should be a number of large head stud bolts inside of the head. Remove the studs starting from the outside set of bolts and work your way in towards the center in a crisscross manner. Removing the bolts in a random manner or from the inside out will result in a warped head which will need to be machined to fix it (this is very bad).

Question:How do I install the Cylinder Head?

Answer:

1. If the valves have been removed, the valves should be re-lapped and the valve stem seal should be replaced. The valve springs, retainer and camshaft should also be installed prior to remounting the head on the engine.
2. Take a long board or hand powered board sander and give the block and head a light sanding using medium grit (200) sand paper. You want to remove any residue and oxidation that may be present before mating the head to the engine.
3. Wipe any metal dust or any other fluids or dirt that may have collected from each cylinder. Make sure that the bottom of the head is clean.
4. Place a new head gasket on the top of the engine. Never reuse an old head gasket as they change shape when the head bolts are tightened to form a perfect seal.
5. Before placing the head on the engine, check to make sure that the camshaft is set at top dead center (TDC).
6. Bolt on the cylinder head. Often, cylinder head bolts can only be used once. They must be replaced each time. If you are in a bind, you may be able to reuse them once at your own risk. Cylinder head bolts stretch a bit when installed, hence they cannot be reused multiple times. You will need to reinstall each of these bolts in a specific order. The information relating to this ordering is usually provided in the original factory repair manual (recommended), a Bentley Manual, Haynes, or similar repair manual. If this information is unavailable, install the studs starting from the inside set of bolts and work your way out from the center in a crisscross manner. Installing the bolts in a random manner or from the outside in will result in a warped head which will need to be machined to fix it (this is very bad). The bolts must be tightened to a specific torque using a torque wrench. This is usually specified on the package of bolts that you have bought or in the repair manuals. Remember, incorrectly torque on one or more bolts, or applying them in the wrong order will cause head warping.
7. Install the valve cover gasket and bolt on the valve cover.
8. Bolt on the exhaust and intake manifold. Remember, don't forget the gaskets!!!
9. Bolt on any other items that may have been removed previously.
10. Reconnect all coolant hoses.
11. Reconnect all electrical connections.
12. Make sure the engine is at TDC.
13. Proceed with engine timing process.

Question:What is valve lapping?

Answer: Valve lapping must be performed when you need to remove or replace valves in the cylinder head. Valve lapping essentially makes sure that the valves completely seal to the walls of the intake and exhaust ports when the valves are closed. To ensure this, the process of valve lapping is performed where the valves are "lapped" or joined to the walls of the ports such that they perform a complete seal.

Valve lapping kits are sold at most automotive store for less than $15.00. It consists of valve lapping compound (some kits contain both a coarse and fine grit tube of compound) and a small handle with a suction cup on the end or a small suction cup on one end and a larger one on the other end.

Question:How is valve lapping performed?

Answer: Valve lapping is performed by first removing the cylinder head from the engine. The cam shaft(s), valve springs, valves, and retainers are then removed from the head. When the valves are ready to be reinstalled in to the head, each valve is lapped individually.

The first step is to clean the surface where the valve and cylinder head port seal together with a clean rag. Then spread a coating of the compound around the sealing edges of the valve (this is the angled part of the valve that slopes toward the stem. If you have both a coarse and fine grit tube of compound, start with the coarse one. Reinsert the valve in to the head and attach the suction cup to the bottom of the valve. Now place the handle of the stick which is connected to the suction cup between the palms of your hands and roll it back and forth. Imagine as if you were trying to start a fire with a stick. The valve should be spun back and forth repeatedly. After a minute or two of this, the pitch of the noise that is made as the valve is being rotated will change. Continue for about 15 seconds more and then stop. Remove the valve and wipe all the compound off of the valve and cylinder head port. It is important to remove all of the compound as any compound that remains when the head in reinstalled on the engine can ruin the engine. If you have coarse and fine compound, you must now repeat with the fine compound. After you are done, you should see a nice uniform gray band on the surface of the valve where it heads the wall of the port. If it is not uniform, you have a problem and need to repeat the process. Valve lapping must be done individually for each valve.

After you have finished lapping the valves, you may check for leaks. This can be done inserting the valve in the head and applying finger pressure on it to hold it in. Then you pour in a little pain thinner and while holding pressure on the bottom of the valve check for leaks. If any of the valves leak, the lapping process must be repeated for that valve.

Question:What is the difference between purchasing a cylinder head gasket and a cylinder head gasket kit?

Answer: A cylinder head gasket gives you only the cylinder head gasket which is used only if you were removing the head as a whole (without taking apart the head) from the engine. A cylinder head gasket kit gives you all seals and gaskets (along with the cylinder head gasket itself) that are applied to the cylinder head. This usually consists of the intake manifold gasket, the exhaust manifold gasket, cam seals, coolant fitting seals and O-rings, and valve stem seals. If any work is done to the cylinder head or if your old intake or exhaust manifold gaskets are damaged, you are best off with purchasing the cylinder head gasket kit.

Symptom: drive train vibration on acceleration.

Solution: check drive shaft rubber coupling for separation causing it to be out of balance.

Symptom: Water leaking into trunk.

Solution: Climb into trunk with flashlight, close trunk have a helper spray water with garden hose, and observe where water enters trunk seal, rear window seal, or antenna grommet.

Symptom: Engine starts to overheat in stop and go traffic.

Solution: Fan clutch not revving in sync with engine RPM replace fan clutch.

For Accords

Question: How do you replace the bumper turn signals on a 1994 Honda Accord?

Answer: If you look on the inside part of the bumper signal (closest to the license plate) you will see 1 screw. You will need a long phillips screw driver held at an angle to unscrew it. Then you just wiggle it out.

Question: What is the years/generations of Honda Accords that were made?

Answer:
7th gen - '03-up
6th gen - '98-'02
5th gen - '94-'97
4th gen - '90-'93
3rd gen - '86-'89
2nd gen - '82-'85
1st gen - '76-81

Question: How do you reset the maintenance required light on a 7th gen Honda Accord Coupe?

Answer: 1. Press and Hold the reset button located at the odometer. 2. Turn the ignition key to ON only, keep the reset button pressed until the maintenance light goes off (about 10 seconds).

Question: Can I replace my squeaky Honda Suspension bushings myself?

Answer: If you are going to change suspension bushings, be sure to change them all. Most likely if some of them are bad and you can see them, others are bad also.

Changing the bushings in the Accord is a pain to say the least. However, it is mostly possible for you to do. You can take all the parts off that you will need to replace the bushings on, then take it to a shop that can press the old ones out with a hydraulic press. It'll take them around 30 minutes to press them all out. It you try to do it on your own, it'll take you days to do them all.

For Civics

Question: Civic What causes odd clicking sounds and shaky steering at speeds over 60 mph?

Answer: Clicking is usually caused by bad axles or CV joints. Shaking is usually caused by warped rotors or unbalanced wheels.

Question: My Civic is bogging out at ½ throttle or more. What do I check?

Answer: You can check the following:
1. Replace your fuel filter.
2. Make sure the fuel pump working and delivering enough fuel.
3. Check the engine timing
4. Check injectors
5. Examine throttle body for problems.

Question: Civic Timing?

Answer: At TDC you put the crank to the right of the three marks which is the single mark a little to the right of them (approximately 3/8 of an inch). The group of 3 marks represent 14-16-18 degrees of timing. The cam gears have to be set with the arrows lining up together.

Question: How can I install a shift light in to my 1998 Civic? Where can I find the Tachometer Test Connector?

Answer: The easiest place to find the "tachometer" wire from the distributor is found at the instrument cluster plugs. It's the one on the left which requires the removal of six Phillips screws.
The wire you will need is the blue one which is the tachometer signal from the distributor. The red/black wire is for the parking lights. The black wire is ground. Soldering the wires instead of crimp connectors is recommended.

Question: Where is the fuel pressure regulator located on a 1993 Honda Civic DX D15 engine?

Answer: It is located at the drivers side end of the fuel rail.

Question: Is cutting the stock suspension springs a good idea?

Answer: When you cut the springs you will be changing the molecular structure that the original engineers designed the spring with. Hence, the springs will not perform correctly any more. Also, lowering springs are progressive. They take in to account the amount they lower your car and make up for it with a stiffer spring rate as they compress. Cutting your springs will lower your car but will give you a somewhat similar spring rate as you would have stock so your car will not react as you anticipated in many cases. The car will most likely continually bounce off of the bump stops. This is not the right way to lower the car. It is much safer and correct to buy one of the many after market lowering springs available for your make/year/model Honda.

Symptom: Diesel hard starting no glow light.

Solution: Check glow plugs and replace all if one or more found defective.

Symptom: Hood star broken?

Solution: These can be easily replaced with pair of pliers from the underside. Pull down on the spring loaded clamp and twist to release.

Symptom: Doors make loud knock noise when opening and closing.

Solution: Door check stop needs replacing.

Symptom: Loose/vibrating steering?

Solution: Almost always caused by Wheel bearings with excessive play. Adjust or replace when play cannot be adjusted out.

Symptom: 911 engine oil leak

Solution: Oil return tube seals leak,replace with collapsible tubes. There is no need to remove engine and cylinder heads.

Symptom: 928-944 late 911 with hydraulic clutch linkage.

Solution: Clutch pedal soft or mushy stays on floor will not return. Brake fluid level low or Hydraulic leak. Check lines hoses clutch master and slave cylinder for leaks.